In preparing the Berger House for the market I am wondering if there was a common trait with entry doors. My dad had always used a basic cheap paint grade mahagony door. The hardware was cheap also. After he died I replaced them with the same as my mother had limited funds. I am thinking of quarter sawn mahogany( I believe called ribbon)
All the hardware in the house is brass ,so I would assume I should do the same with the door hardware
Frank Lloyd Wright doors
I am by no means an expert, but one thing I have observed in a number of Usonians is that, in terms of hardware mounting, the door knob is typically mounted much higher than the standard 36" height. I have never measured so I don't know what that height is, but it is so noticeably higher that you immediately know you are entering a special place. I believe the hardware I have seen is predominantly brass, to match the typically brass piano hinges and other hardware. Species of wood varies to match the cabinetry and other wood in the house, which varies somewhat from house to house.
Of course, many original owners made compromises for financial reasons, just as your parents did.
Of course, many original owners made compromises for financial reasons, just as your parents did.
Jim
My opinion as to how to prepare a unique property for sale is to do as little as possible to the existing fabric, consistent with safety and security. You want to present an attractive home that's clean and empty, and ready to move into. But last-minute changes and "improvements" designed solely for the much-ballyhooed "curb appeal" are to be avoided, as I see it. This house is no mere accommodation -- it is a priceless architectural artifact. And the buyer willing to pay way more per square foot than the raw specification would seem to indicate, is one who wants to see the house in its unaltered condition, and who will enjoy the task of restoration where that is indicated.
The fact that the front door has had to be replaced repeatedly, if that is the case, might mean that a proper exterior door has not been installed -- an interior door, perhaps ? I would choose exactly the same thing now that is presently in place, with new hardware perhaps but nothing that will require new holes in the jambs.
Moving the latchset to a new elevation would require patching the present strike location on the latch jamb, and cutting a new one higher up. Interested readers will find that many Usonians -- perhaps even a majority ? -- were not equipped with Mr Wright's unusual and comment-provoking choice of hardware positioning.
Less is more ! If I were to make a bid for the Berger house, sight unseen, I would hope that the current owners had done as little as possible to the senior Berger's construction and finishing choices, so that I could assess the result for myself, and proceed as I wished to a) renew the house to its original state, or b) make changes to bring it even closer to the architect's intent, where that can be determined. Keep the rain and the rodents out, sure -- but do as little else as possible.
I hope my comments won't be found crude or insulting. I'd be interested to hear what others think of this problem.
SDR
The fact that the front door has had to be replaced repeatedly, if that is the case, might mean that a proper exterior door has not been installed -- an interior door, perhaps ? I would choose exactly the same thing now that is presently in place, with new hardware perhaps but nothing that will require new holes in the jambs.
Moving the latchset to a new elevation would require patching the present strike location on the latch jamb, and cutting a new one higher up. Interested readers will find that many Usonians -- perhaps even a majority ? -- were not equipped with Mr Wright's unusual and comment-provoking choice of hardware positioning.
Less is more ! If I were to make a bid for the Berger house, sight unseen, I would hope that the current owners had done as little as possible to the senior Berger's construction and finishing choices, so that I could assess the result for myself, and proceed as I wished to a) renew the house to its original state, or b) make changes to bring it even closer to the architect's intent, where that can be determined. Keep the rain and the rodents out, sure -- but do as little else as possible.
I hope my comments won't be found crude or insulting. I'd be interested to hear what others think of this problem.
SDR
At Sweeton, the workshop, workspace, and basement doors were originally spec'd as flush magogany doors with no glass lites, brass Schlage hardware as found elsewhere on the house (knobs are at a standard height), and 3 butt hinges each. All were installed as spec'd in 1951.
According to Sweeton records and daughter comment, the kitchen door was replaced almost immediately with the current painted pine jalousie door to admit additional natural light and more importantly, much needed ventilation to the workspace.
The basement door was subject to much weathering from rain, snow buildup in the stairwell, and moisture from minimal exposure to sun...it was falling apart when I first saw the house, and was replaced by the previous owner with an interior grade luan faced flush door from a home center just before my purchase of the house...predictably, it peeled, warped and curled to its current state within 6 months. As it is virtually unseen and additional combustion air is needed for the boiler, I plan on replacing the door with a more moisture tolerant door with an appropriately sized air vent.
The workshop door is original and is the same 1-3/8" thick hollow core (possibly insulated) mahogany door as those used in the bedrooms and bathroom. It is pretty well sheltered, but has veneer delamination and loss at its exterior base; otherwise, it is in good condition. Damage has been caused by rain spatter from the gutter-less roof. It will be restored.
When I toured the pre-alteration Pieper house in AZ, I recall there were hollow core flush magogany doors at a couple of exterior locations. They had the odd height knobs, probably owing to Wright's direct oversight.
According to Sweeton records and daughter comment, the kitchen door was replaced almost immediately with the current painted pine jalousie door to admit additional natural light and more importantly, much needed ventilation to the workspace.
The basement door was subject to much weathering from rain, snow buildup in the stairwell, and moisture from minimal exposure to sun...it was falling apart when I first saw the house, and was replaced by the previous owner with an interior grade luan faced flush door from a home center just before my purchase of the house...predictably, it peeled, warped and curled to its current state within 6 months. As it is virtually unseen and additional combustion air is needed for the boiler, I plan on replacing the door with a more moisture tolerant door with an appropriately sized air vent.
The workshop door is original and is the same 1-3/8" thick hollow core (possibly insulated) mahogany door as those used in the bedrooms and bathroom. It is pretty well sheltered, but has veneer delamination and loss at its exterior base; otherwise, it is in good condition. Damage has been caused by rain spatter from the gutter-less roof. It will be restored.
When I toured the pre-alteration Pieper house in AZ, I recall there were hollow core flush magogany doors at a couple of exterior locations. They had the odd height knobs, probably owing to Wright's direct oversight.
Last edited by DRN on Fri Apr 06, 2012 12:48 pm, edited 1 time in total.
-
Paul Ringstrom
- Posts: 4777
- Joined: Sat Sep 17, 2005 4:53 pm
- Location: Mason City, IA
If you are replacing an exterior door it is important to specify a "stave-lumber core". Do not get stuck with a particle board core.
Here is a company that lets you specify exactly what you need:
http://www.door.cc/Flush-Doors.html
Here is a company that lets you specify exactly what you need:
http://www.door.cc/Flush-Doors.html
-
Roderick Grant
- Posts: 11815
- Joined: Wed Mar 29, 2006 7:48 am
I have the specs for Penfield II - and for the exterior doors they called for: 1 3/4" flush panel, staved lumber-core light Philippine Mahogany (U.S. Plywood Corp.). (Red Tidewater Cypress was proposed as an alternate).
The hardware listed for the Entrance door is as follows:
1.) Cylindrical lockset: Russwin "Stilemaker" heavy duty; #442 Mono design knob; Enfield rose #3942; Special backset 5" (Russell & Erwin Div., The American Hardware Co., New Britain, Conn.)
2.) Hinges: Stanley continuous type #314, 3" open width, full height of door. (Stanley Hardware, 61 W. Kinzie St., Chicago)
3.) Threshold: Allmetal #245 (Allmetal Weatherstrip Co., 2247 N. Knox Ave, Chicago 39)
4.) Air sealer: Zero #53 (Zero Weatherstripping, Co., 451 E. 136th St., NYC)
Finish: All exposed hardware, unless otherwise separately specified : US Dull brass.
And for other specs of interest:
Countertop surfacing: Battleship linoleum, Congoleum-Nairn, 1/8" gauge, Terra Cotta #1002. Use adhesive recommended and supplied by the manufacturer.
Cabinet Hardware:
1.) Drawer slides: KV #1100 Lightweight (Knape & Vogt Mfg. Co., 462 Bryant, San Francisco, Calif.)
2.) Drawer pulls: Peabody #B-418 1" dia
3.) Door pulls: Peabody #B-418 1" dia
4.) Door catch: KV #916 Magnetic cabinet catch.
5.) Hinges: Stanley continuous type #311, open width 1 1/2", full height of door.
Painting Schedule:
Interior woodwork: Apply 2 coats Martin-Senour "Satin Finish Varnish" (#08080), first coat thinned with 1 pint turpentine/gal. Let dry thoroughly and rub lightly with steel wool between coats.
Woodwork in bathrooms: Apply 2 coats Martin-Senour "Bar Top Varnish" (#08038), first coat thinned with 1 pint turpentine/gal. Let dry thouroughly and rub lightly with steel wool between coats.
Exterior woodwork: Apply two coats "Durable Woods Finish, Dull", Breinig Bros., Hoboken, N. J.
David
The hardware listed for the Entrance door is as follows:
1.) Cylindrical lockset: Russwin "Stilemaker" heavy duty; #442 Mono design knob; Enfield rose #3942; Special backset 5" (Russell & Erwin Div., The American Hardware Co., New Britain, Conn.)
2.) Hinges: Stanley continuous type #314, 3" open width, full height of door. (Stanley Hardware, 61 W. Kinzie St., Chicago)
3.) Threshold: Allmetal #245 (Allmetal Weatherstrip Co., 2247 N. Knox Ave, Chicago 39)
4.) Air sealer: Zero #53 (Zero Weatherstripping, Co., 451 E. 136th St., NYC)
Finish: All exposed hardware, unless otherwise separately specified : US Dull brass.
And for other specs of interest:
Countertop surfacing: Battleship linoleum, Congoleum-Nairn, 1/8" gauge, Terra Cotta #1002. Use adhesive recommended and supplied by the manufacturer.
Cabinet Hardware:
1.) Drawer slides: KV #1100 Lightweight (Knape & Vogt Mfg. Co., 462 Bryant, San Francisco, Calif.)
2.) Drawer pulls: Peabody #B-418 1" dia
3.) Door pulls: Peabody #B-418 1" dia
4.) Door catch: KV #916 Magnetic cabinet catch.
5.) Hinges: Stanley continuous type #311, open width 1 1/2", full height of door.
Painting Schedule:
Interior woodwork: Apply 2 coats Martin-Senour "Satin Finish Varnish" (#08080), first coat thinned with 1 pint turpentine/gal. Let dry thoroughly and rub lightly with steel wool between coats.
Woodwork in bathrooms: Apply 2 coats Martin-Senour "Bar Top Varnish" (#08038), first coat thinned with 1 pint turpentine/gal. Let dry thouroughly and rub lightly with steel wool between coats.
Exterior woodwork: Apply two coats "Durable Woods Finish, Dull", Breinig Bros., Hoboken, N. J.
David