Sikkens 23 and high gloss

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KevinW
Posts: 1288
Joined: Sun Feb 06, 2005 6:41 pm

Sikkens 23 and high gloss

Post by KevinW »

Several who have tackled exterior wood restoration and preservation have specified Sikkens Cetol 1 and Cetol 23. We are soon to be working on the Beharka house exterior wood and I've been trying different products. While I was excited about trying the 3 step Sikkens product, I was very surprised at the amount of gloss the top coat leaves. Is this high gloss something g that was desired for your final product? There is no gloss finish on any wood finishes in this house, and think it would look terrible on this house.
The original finish Bob used on the house was boiled linseed oil on the redwood, which hasn't been reapplied for many years, and oxidation, etc.. has turned many areas black. It's all very dry and gets saturated when it rains.
Tomorrow I'm applying another Sikkens product on a small test panel
that is a one step application and a matte finish to see how that looks.
I was pleasantly surprised that so far, a not too vigorous sanding has brought back a beautiful deep redwood color.
KevinW

DavidC
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Joined: Sat Sep 02, 2006 2:22 pm
Location: Oak Ridge, TN

Post by DavidC »

Hello Kevin:

I am of no help when it comes to the Sikkens products, but I want to wish you the best as you refurbish a wonderful home.

(And, any pictures you may wish to share along the way would be a great treat, too!)


David

peterm
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Joined: Thu Mar 13, 2008 10:27 am
Location: Chicago, Il.---Oskaloosa, Ia.

Post by peterm »

I, too, look forward to seeing some recent photos!

Have you seen this? Redwood has many peculiarities, and I think their advice might be of help:

http://www.calredwood.org/finishing-res ... g-options/

KevinW
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Joined: Sun Feb 06, 2005 6:41 pm

Post by KevinW »

Yes, thanks...I have tried to leave no stone unturned in regard to researching the best approach. I want to maintain the rustic appearance, yet bring back some color and try to get more years out of this wood.
Some mitred corners have separated badly, those are secured with simple wood stops at the plywood spandrels, so hoping that will be an easy fix.
We were hoping to get an earlier start, but the intense heat seems to continue, but looks like this is the week we begin.
Landscaping still a work in progress, but we have planted several California natives that handled the drought and heat of summer like champs.
Interior..next year new carpet, new cushions on the built in sofa and paint.
I'll post some latest interior and some landscape pics this weekend.
KevinW

peterm
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Joined: Thu Mar 13, 2008 10:27 am
Location: Chicago, Il.---Oskaloosa, Ia.

Post by peterm »

My guess is that anything with a glossy finish could be problematic with old redwood, especially in the dry, hot climate of the Central Valley.

Does Sikkens make a one step oil finish?

SDR
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Joined: Sat Jun 17, 2006 11:33 pm
Location: San Francisco

Post by SDR »

I can only say that my maiden voyage with an exterior oil finish -- Watco teak oil on new well-sanded mahogany -- has been a surprise and (so far) a success. The richness of color and the low-sheen surface are the pleasant results. This was a one-coat paint-on application; a flood coat was followed, after 15 minutes, with a second coat, and a wipe-down. I'll be keeping an eye on the wood. No way of knowing, so far, when re-application will be necessary.

SDR
Last edited by SDR on Sat Oct 10, 2015 8:45 pm, edited 1 time in total.

KevinW
Posts: 1288
Joined: Sun Feb 06, 2005 6:41 pm

Post by KevinW »

Yes, they have a new one coat system, that is a matte finish, I bought a can today and will be testing that out tomorrow. I bought a clear and a redwood tinted, while some of the wood has turned black, some has lost color, so hoping the tinted might even things out.
KevinW

SDR
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Location: San Francisco

Post by SDR »

What is the texture of your wood ? Cloth rubbing might not work -- and might not be necessary -- with a coarser surface ?

SDR

pharding
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Location: River Forest, Illinois
Contact:

Post by pharding »

Something is wrong when exterior stains create a film. It is generally because the stain was not absorbed into the wood. This due to improper preparation, coats applied too thick, etc. Sikkens always advises to strip off prior finishes. Did you do that? Did you speak with Sikkens technical support. You are to be commended for doing a test first.
Paul Harding FAIA Restoration Architect for FLW's 1901 E. Arthur Davenport House, 1941 Lloyd Lewis House, 1952 Glore House | www.harding.com | LinkedIn

KevinW
Posts: 1288
Joined: Sun Feb 06, 2005 6:41 pm

Post by KevinW »

Yes, I have spoken with several people, and found a great small town shop 30 miles away where the owners are all about Sikkens. I learned more hanging with them in their store than from Sikkens tech support..these guys are great.
I also have discussed with preservation Architects.. (I've had a few preservation projects but would never consider myself an expert) and am testing different options. I'm pretty sure what I am testing tomorrow will be the way to go.
Last edited by KevinW on Sat Oct 10, 2015 10:44 pm, edited 1 time in total.
KevinW

KevinW
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Joined: Sun Feb 06, 2005 6:41 pm

Post by KevinW »

Steve...the wood kind of varies, but for the most part is smooth, although most of the wood spandrels panels have an almost rough sawn texture because the grain has raised from bring saturated in rainy season, then baked in our hot summers.
KevinW

DRN
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Location: Cherry Hill, NJ

Post by DRN »

Kevin, we used Sikkens on our mullions this summer with a good matte finish result. I photographed the can and posted it on page 13 of the Sweeton window wall thread...I'd link it but my phone is not cooperating.

We used a one part system that had a "teak" tint to it as we were blending new Doug fir with old cypress. The old cypress was sanded to remove a mixture of shellac and varnish, which had held up well where sheltered, but had blackened or flaked away where weathered. I was amazed at how well a light sanding of even the most weather beaten sill brought the wood back....once sanded and Sikken'd the best and worst of the pieces looked as new.

KevinW
Posts: 1288
Joined: Sun Feb 06, 2005 6:41 pm

Post by KevinW »

Thanks. Today we did a patch of the Sikkens Cetol SRD with a tint, we decided the tint wasn't needed, because the sanding is bringing back such a gorgeous color. So the decision is Cetol SRD, with no tint, but, we are keeping the redwood tint to mix in should we find a touch of color is needed to even out particular areas that are gray, even after sanding. Now that is decided, this week I focus on the plaster and paint.
This is very exciting, the person who is doing most of the work, helped Bob out with some of his projects, so he is well aware of the nature of this project.
KevinW

dtc
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Joined: Mon Mar 05, 2007 9:04 am

Post by dtc »

I've been using Sikkens Cetol 1 & 23 for 15 years now.

They recommend that all previous coatings must be removed before applying any Sikkens product. I'm sure you are looking for longevity so don't skimp on this removal step. Wait 24 hrs before applying additional coats.
TSP, house hold bleach and water will be needed to clean the surfaces in the future before refreshening with another 23 coat or "Maintenance" coat.
The Maintenance coat is pure Alkyd resin without the iron oxide.

I have not used SRD, so if you are moving in that direction, recoating will be more often.

Afflick, Reisley, Dobkins are 3 examples that Cetol 1 & 23 have been used with great success.

Good luck!

dtc
Posts: 739
Joined: Mon Mar 05, 2007 9:04 am

Post by dtc »

By the way, Sikkens suggest a maintenance coat of Cetol SRD be applied every 12-18 months. A year, year and a half comes around real fast.

Cetol 1 & 23 needs to be freshened every 3 to 4 years.

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