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Though the carport is supported by 2 large I-beams, the roof framing is all 2x10's and 2x6's which have twisted downward a few inches toward the west front of the house. This twisting has lifted the framing and sheathing over the entry area causing an "arch" in the fascia. Following temporary shoring/leveling of the carport/porch roof, we will add a 40' long flitch plate to the double 2x6 fascia beam to act as a splint to reduce the arching as much as possible.
The rake overhang at the south workshop roof droops a little. It's framing was not originally done as outlookers let into the rafters behind the exterior wall...it was just framed as a continuation of the rafters. A salvaged white oak barn beam was shaped and let in through the top of the framing to give the eave a lift.
Not perfect, but much flatter.
The "arched" fascia beyond is being clamped to straighten it prior to flitch plate bolting. In the foreground a depression in the midspan of the workshop's 2x6's will be flattened.
The carpenter likes to reuse 19th century white oak barn beams where infill framing is used.
Roman numerals visible on a reclaimed barn beam.
Another barn beam set to form a strong back across the midspan of the workshop 2x6's....the clamping of the arched fascia beam is visible at the long fascia.
Prior to replacing the sloped roof, I thought it best to get the fireplace chimney top uncapped and repaired to minimize future traffic on a new roof. The original construction had the terra cotta flue liner nearly flush with the top of the masonry as seen here. It appears at some point a 2" extension of the flue liner was added with additional cement wash to increase the slope of the chimney top. The modified bitumen roofing was adhered directly to the base of the projecting flue liner. To address water infiltration issues, and the current code related issue of bituminous roofing in contact with a flue liner, we are extending the flue liner 12" and surrounding it with two courses of 4" CMU which will allow a reglet to be set 4" above the wash for proper termination of the roofing. It will be flashed with copper and the masonry above will be painted a dark color to camouflage it against the surrounding woods.
Masonry extension in place....a darker color will help.
With a mason on site, it seemed a good time replace any spalled or cracked CMU's in the low extension walls.
Roofing stripped in preparation for new underlayment.
Mock-up of roll and batten roofing.
Another view of mock-up. The base batten is a section of EdgeVent.
I suggest just running the copper up the 8" of CMU and cladding the top of the chimney with copper. The small paint area will just be a maintenance nuisance. Copper is a wonderful material to work with. We are restoring the exterior of the 1910 Booth Hall by Holabird and Roche and we are doing extensive work with copper. It works great.
Holes cut in the existing carport sheathing to allow air into the rafter spaces via the new edge vents to be installed.
The new holes gives a window into one of the original flitch plates in the carport roof.
Roof underlayment is in place: 1/4" DensDeck, self adhering ice and water shield, and roll roofing base sheet.
A view of the west side of the roof...the black roll roofing base sheet material baking in the sun. Application of the red finish roll roofing has been delayed due to weather: either too wet or too hot. Moisture presents adhering issues, and too hot poses workability issues on a roof where arrow straight and flat application is critical. The underlayment gives us a dry condition for the house and exposure of the base sheet to UV is OK for about 30 days.
In the mean time, metal work for edge flashing, and preparation of base flashing for built-in gutters is proceeding.
The gutters will be held back 12" from the corners, and will be custom bent to exactly match the original fascia profile. The edge vent is in place just above the gutter recess...it will look like a batten shadow line when all is finished.
Installation of insulation is proceeding. Spacer strips were installed to maintain an airspace between the polyisocyanurate boards and the underside of the sheathing.
Sill sealer roll was stapled to the exposed faces of the rafters to prevent ghosting on the drywall. The gaps in the insulation at the bridging will be filled with foil faced fiberglass batts.
Christine and her cousin enjoying dinner in what we call the "Cantilever Cafe". As we don't currently have a dining room, and eating in the galley kitchen is difficult for more than two people, this has been a good substitute. (The 2x posts prevent deflection of the carport roof under the weight of roofing installers and equipment.)
Sheet No. 5 was posted here:
http://www.savewright.org/wright_chat/v ... 04f15d72ee
The flitch is in the upper left corner of the sheet, possibly it can be zoomed upon.
Thanks for keeping us up to date on all-things Sweeton. You are doing a wonderful, measured and caring job on your terrific home.
As far as covering the exposed edges on the ceiling studs with the sill sealer to prevent any ghosting on the drywall, are you familiar with Aerogel Insulation by Thermablok? It claims to limit thermal bridging betweern the stud edge and the drywall - and adds a 30% - 42% increased insulation factor, depending on the thickness of material used.
I have no idea on the cost of this item. Could be through the roof (so to speak). But, then again, it could be worth the upfront investment for something that will be covered by drywall for a long, long time - and help with the overall insulation factor.
It looks as if the Aerogel's thickness is a bit greater than the sill sealer strips I'm using...I'll have to experiment and see if that causes alignment issues with the flush transom stops when sandwiched under the 3/8" GWB. I might be able to use it in the future on bedroom 2 and the master bedroom if cost and alignment don't cause a problem.
EdgeVent at the base of the roof with battens milled from Trex decking thereafter. The factory finish of the Trex was left exposed at the edge, and "end grains" painted with roll roofing primer. Because of the low elevation of the workshop roof, and thus the visibility into the gutter, coupled with the presence of the ground gutter, we elected not to gutter this section.
Built-in gutter custom formed to match the fascia profile. The original fascia wraps the corner and extends 12" inward.
The gutter spouts work well....I'm considering leaving off the chains for a while until I see how the water behaves. At the house corners there is minimal, if any, splashing of the house; at the drop in the middle of the long front eave where the water is closer to the gallery wall, I will definitely install the chain.