Sweeton Window Wall and Roof Resto/Rehabilitation

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dtc
Posts: 739
Joined: Mon Mar 05, 2007 9:04 am

Post by dtc »

Dan,
The house and the Wright community is glad you are tackling this pressing project. A garage can be built at a later date if you still decide you need one.
It does appear your work is complete for this year, and it is looking fine. April will be here before you know it, and all the trades can continue on.

Will you attend the conference this month?

DRN
Posts: 4058
Joined: Mon Jul 10, 2006 10:02 am
Location: Cherry Hill, NJ

Post by DRN »

Thanks for the kind words Dan.
Christine and I will be in Phoenix.

SDR
Posts: 20304
Joined: Sat Jun 17, 2006 11:33 pm
Location: San Francisco

Post by SDR »

Fresh photo of exterior paint, added to a previous post (see page 8 ).

SDR

DavidC
Posts: 8122
Joined: Sat Sep 02, 2006 2:22 pm
Location: Oak Ridge, TN

Post by DavidC »

Dan:

Would it be possible to paint the aluminum flashing on the chimney mass, to try and make it blend in and disappear somewhat? I know that there are primers made for going over aluminum. For example: PPG Seal Grip® Acrylic Universal Primer/Sealer


David

SDR
Posts: 20304
Joined: Sat Jun 17, 2006 11:33 pm
Location: San Francisco

Post by SDR »

Image


Image


Image

DavidC
Posts: 8122
Joined: Sat Sep 02, 2006 2:22 pm
Location: Oak Ridge, TN

Post by DavidC »

Ok .... make that copper flashing ..... and cancel the painting idea .... hahahaha.


David

DRN
Posts: 4058
Joined: Mon Jul 10, 2006 10:02 am
Location: Cherry Hill, NJ

Post by DRN »

Interestingly, in preparation for the paint, I used a mild bleach and water solution to remove some green growth from the shady portions of the block and found that it puts a pleasing verdigris patina on the copper which has mellowed to a brown since it was installed a few years ago.

SDR
Posts: 20304
Joined: Sat Jun 17, 2006 11:33 pm
Location: San Francisco

Post by SDR »

It's hard to argue that the flashing isn't rather large in this case -- because of the size of the block courses, of course. What is the tradition in the painting of such flashing when it becomes too prominent (or for some other reason) ?

Naturally, one prefers the unadulterated thing, in any case -- as a matter of principle if nothing else. Still . . . the block is painted . . .

SDR

DRN
Posts: 4058
Joined: Mon Jul 10, 2006 10:02 am
Location: Cherry Hill, NJ

Post by DRN »

Wright's drawings specified copper, but terne metal (lead and tin coated steel painted red), was used instead presumably for reasons of cost... a small bit of non stepped terne metal remains above and to left of the kitchen door on the bedroom #1 roof. The original flashing at the masonry mass was stepped and followed the block mortar joints, but held closer to the roof surface than my version. A previous owner of the house removed the original terne metal flashing, and installed the "low profile" non-stepped 3" high copper flashing seen in the 2008 photo SDR posted on this page. The original flashing and the later low profile flashing were prone to leaking as evidenced from wall streaks when we bought the house. My suspicion was that the freeze thaw cycling particularly in accumulated snow and ice beneath the scuppers was working its way into the block through the reglets cut into the block so close to the roof surface. I chose practicality over appearance raising the reglets, and have learned to accept the more prominent flashing as a necessary evil...and I can't bring myself to paint copper. Prior to doing this, I noted that several other Usonians have sprouted more robust flashing over the years.

DRN
Posts: 4058
Joined: Mon Jul 10, 2006 10:02 am
Location: Cherry Hill, NJ

Post by DRN »

An in-process photo of the new French doors in the woodworker's shop:

Image

We should be getting back under way again when April begins.
Now we must pack up and "move out" of the living and dining areas, which means almost all of my library and much of our furniture will be in storage off-site for 5 months. We will live in the partitioned off bedroom wing with access to the dust protected kitchen via a passage through an entry area closet.

dtc
Posts: 739
Joined: Mon Mar 05, 2007 9:04 am

Post by dtc »

Dan, Christine,

Dianne just saw your latest pic. of the doors.
She wanted me to give you two all the credit you deserve.

We are both very impressed. Your work and dedication is contagious.

Soon you will find yourself coasting to the finish line.

Paul Ringstrom
Posts: 4426
Joined: Sat Sep 17, 2005 4:53 pm
Location: Mason City, IA

Post by Paul Ringstrom »

What kind of wood are you using on the doors?
Owner of the G. Curtis Yelland House (1910), by Wm. Drummond

DRN
Posts: 4058
Joined: Mon Jul 10, 2006 10:02 am
Location: Cherry Hill, NJ

Post by DRN »

dtc and Dianne: Thanks for the words of encouragement, we're looking forward to relaxing with a drink or two in Milwaukee this Fall and sharing "war stories".

Paul: The French doors and the window wall framing to be replaced are being rebuilt with Douglas Fir, much of it salvaged from a barn that was torn down.

pharding
Posts: 2253
Joined: Sat Jun 25, 2005 5:19 pm
Location: River Forest, Illinois
Contact:

Post by pharding »

dtc wrote:Thanks SDR for posting these pics. .......
......
DTC Your work is exquisite and consistent with the highest preservation standards.
Paul Harding FAIA Restoration Architect for FLW's 1901 E. Arthur Davenport House, 1941 Lloyd Lewis House, 1952 Glore House | www.harding.com | LinkedIn

DRN
Posts: 4058
Joined: Mon Jul 10, 2006 10:02 am
Location: Cherry Hill, NJ

Post by DRN »

Its Spring! Here we go...

Image
Reopening the temporary enclosure.

Image
Constructing a dust enclosure for the kitchen. 3/4" OSB is being laid on the floor to protect the slab.

Image
Protectives going on over the built-ins. Nailers are applied to the pine shelves (not the redwood fascias) with a few finish nails. The holes will be puttied at the end of work.

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