I will be posting some pics that illustrate the work that was done on the John Dobkins house between 1997 to the present.
First, this is just some approaches to the various ways of tackling the various problems we encountered when we acquired the house.
We worked on masonry, wood, copper, glass and cement, basically all the materials Wright used on the house.
There are as many resolves to the problems we faced as there are readers on this forum. So please bear with me, some of this may be of use to you in the future.
And second, if not informative it may be entertaining.
If these processes can help others in the future to solve their problems the better.
So at this time my wife Dianne and I must thank John Origlio, a fine architect and big fan of F.LL.W. for aiding and guiding us through this challenging restoration, which we enjoyed being a part of to say the least.
I'm sure without John's assistance we would have fallen and scraped our chins
more then we would of liked.
And yes, thanks to SDR for assisting in posting the pics.
some thoughts on the Dobkins restoration.
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Education Professor
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finished coping-flashing
parapet coping psd
soldering folded seam
special"finished coping and flashing"
This is the final pic of the bedroom chimney. It illustrates new masonry, with new flashing (which is hard to see but Dennis, the metal smith, suggest we made sure the flashing raised up against all vertical surfaces at least 4 to 5 inches) and then apply counter flashing. Just under the counter flashing you can see the new solder seam on flashing.
The top of the chimney, after we applied the traditional cement wash for proper water runoff we applied a copper drip edge and coping of folded and soldered seams. Also we reinstalled the original flue cap. Many think a flue cap will keep water out of a chimney, that is not true. It may keep water from entering down a flue but will not protect the masonry, which was the problem at the Dobkins from the get go.
Also we installed a course copper screen (not insect screen) to keep out birds, leaves and debris.
"parapet coping"
This is self explanatory...We applied the metal after the new masonry was finished. The drip edge went up first and coping folded over drip edge. Note no fasteners puncturing the metal... copper clips were screwed to head joints of masonry and drip edge crimped to it.
"soldering folded seam"
Dennis was a master, I would watch and enjoy him work on our projects. I would tell him he had it made working out doors in the fresh air, not working in a fluorescent lit box in some office, he would smile and nod his head...he did have it made.
"special"
This is one of many specials we had made for the masonry/brick restoration. Now I am not exaggerating when I tell you that while waiting for the masonry crew to arrive to start their work, the corner piece of brick (circled) fell of the parapet wall and landed a foot from were I was standing.
One reason why we had all the pieces formed into one unit...did not want that to happen again to yet another future caretaker of the Dobkins house.
And it was another reminder that ..."It was time" to start the masonry!
Note: we knew we had the the right man for the job when Dennis told us all his pans would have 60 & 120 degree corners (parallelograms) like the house ...no 90 degrees for this job.
This is the final pic of the bedroom chimney. It illustrates new masonry, with new flashing (which is hard to see but Dennis, the metal smith, suggest we made sure the flashing raised up against all vertical surfaces at least 4 to 5 inches) and then apply counter flashing. Just under the counter flashing you can see the new solder seam on flashing.
The top of the chimney, after we applied the traditional cement wash for proper water runoff we applied a copper drip edge and coping of folded and soldered seams. Also we reinstalled the original flue cap. Many think a flue cap will keep water out of a chimney, that is not true. It may keep water from entering down a flue but will not protect the masonry, which was the problem at the Dobkins from the get go.
Also we installed a course copper screen (not insect screen) to keep out birds, leaves and debris.
"parapet coping"
This is self explanatory...We applied the metal after the new masonry was finished. The drip edge went up first and coping folded over drip edge. Note no fasteners puncturing the metal... copper clips were screwed to head joints of masonry and drip edge crimped to it.
"soldering folded seam"
Dennis was a master, I would watch and enjoy him work on our projects. I would tell him he had it made working out doors in the fresh air, not working in a fluorescent lit box in some office, he would smile and nod his head...he did have it made.
"special"
This is one of many specials we had made for the masonry/brick restoration. Now I am not exaggerating when I tell you that while waiting for the masonry crew to arrive to start their work, the corner piece of brick (circled) fell of the parapet wall and landed a foot from were I was standing.
One reason why we had all the pieces formed into one unit...did not want that to happen again to yet another future caretaker of the Dobkins house.
And it was another reminder that ..."It was time" to start the masonry!
Note: we knew we had the the right man for the job when Dennis told us all his pans would have 60 & 120 degree corners (parallelograms) like the house ...no 90 degrees for this job.
I'm very impressed with that brick "special" -- and I think Wright and any of his apprentices would be too. A superb solution to a nasty problem.
Many an exterior brick wall or step, even at 90 degrees, has lost that corner "tooth." You're to be congratulated for insisting on this permanent
remedy.
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189
190
191
187
Many an exterior brick wall or step, even at 90 degrees, has lost that corner "tooth." You're to be congratulated for insisting on this permanent
remedy.
188 189 190 191 187188
Cutting away brick which had shattered faces, chips and or major cracks.
(It was comparable to removing a cancerous tumor to save the rest of the body).
189
bringing down the master bedroom chimney.
note the tar that was used on the counter flashing and a few courses above the counter to prevent water penetration, (over time they actually created a black band-aid around both masonry masses which did not remedy the problem).
Calling in roofers that specialize in built up tar roofs solve clients problems with tar.
190
The tarp was used to prove to myself that water penetration was entering the house from the masonry and not the flashings and or the roof.
The masonry was wrapped, exposing flashing and roof from Nov. thru April.
This gave us the needed evidence to move forward with the removal of the failed brick and chimney cement wash.
191
The condition in 1997---spalling brick, cracked brick, poor tuck pointing, major efflorescence and tar coated counter flashing. Note moss growing on upper courses.
Could it be any uglier?
187
Working on the workspace parapet walls.
And thanks to John Origlio for his drawings and Belden brick for forming and firing the brick to match in color and texture those of the originals.
Belden of Canton and Sugarcreek Ohio supplied the originals in 1954.
Cutting away brick which had shattered faces, chips and or major cracks.
(It was comparable to removing a cancerous tumor to save the rest of the body).
189
bringing down the master bedroom chimney.
note the tar that was used on the counter flashing and a few courses above the counter to prevent water penetration, (over time they actually created a black band-aid around both masonry masses which did not remedy the problem).
Calling in roofers that specialize in built up tar roofs solve clients problems with tar.
190
The tarp was used to prove to myself that water penetration was entering the house from the masonry and not the flashings and or the roof.
The masonry was wrapped, exposing flashing and roof from Nov. thru April.
This gave us the needed evidence to move forward with the removal of the failed brick and chimney cement wash.
191
The condition in 1997---spalling brick, cracked brick, poor tuck pointing, major efflorescence and tar coated counter flashing. Note moss growing on upper courses.
Could it be any uglier?
187
Working on the workspace parapet walls.
And thanks to John Origlio for his drawings and Belden brick for forming and firing the brick to match in color and texture those of the originals.
Belden of Canton and Sugarcreek Ohio supplied the originals in 1954.
Door and window restoration.
Everyone suggested that we build new doors. This was not a remodel and it was not an option.
We retained as much of the original fabric as possible, and removed only the rotted wood.
First all rotted and failed mortise and tenon joints had to be addressed; this photo shows the hand tools
that were used for this project. As for power tools I also used a router, a cut-off saw and table saw.
182
Replacing continuous hinges with original slotted brass screws.
The tall living room doors have 80 some screws per door.
180
Final adjusting and cleaning of the "Dutchman" joint with a mortise chisel.
The new bottom rail and lower portion of the stiles using mortise and tenon joints were made in my shop during the previous winter, and the
aborting of the rotted wood and creating the "Dutchman" was worked on in the fore-court when temperatures were above 55 degrees.
Glues and finishes like warm temps. I used a two part epoxy for the glue ... the "West" system. Boat builders love this product.
178
Condition of the bottom rails of the miter window.
Note extensive use of building sealant and rusted finishing nail.
At some time in the life of the house, Dobkins had all the Spar varnish removed and had applied to the exterior an opaque stain.
175
Gluing up the "Dutchman".
Friends thought I was spending way too much time on making these joints. They wanted to see it happen faster, suggesting all sorts of shortcuts.
Does one want to down a cocktail, one, two, three, rush through a fine meal -- or to slow down savor and enjoy each bite?
177
Although I look confused, I am just dry fitting the joint before I glue-up. The sooner I finish this project, the sooner I can get to the smoked Salmon in the Trader Joe's bag.
Note the doors to my right and my left are finished. I waited to attack this mitered window as I gained experience.
179
Everyone suggested that we build new doors. This was not a remodel and it was not an option.
We retained as much of the original fabric as possible, and removed only the rotted wood.
First all rotted and failed mortise and tenon joints had to be addressed; this photo shows the hand tools
that were used for this project. As for power tools I also used a router, a cut-off saw and table saw.
182Replacing continuous hinges with original slotted brass screws.
The tall living room doors have 80 some screws per door.
180Final adjusting and cleaning of the "Dutchman" joint with a mortise chisel.
The new bottom rail and lower portion of the stiles using mortise and tenon joints were made in my shop during the previous winter, and the
aborting of the rotted wood and creating the "Dutchman" was worked on in the fore-court when temperatures were above 55 degrees.
Glues and finishes like warm temps. I used a two part epoxy for the glue ... the "West" system. Boat builders love this product.
178Condition of the bottom rails of the miter window.
Note extensive use of building sealant and rusted finishing nail.
At some time in the life of the house, Dobkins had all the Spar varnish removed and had applied to the exterior an opaque stain.
175Gluing up the "Dutchman".
Friends thought I was spending way too much time on making these joints. They wanted to see it happen faster, suggesting all sorts of shortcuts.
Does one want to down a cocktail, one, two, three, rush through a fine meal -- or to slow down savor and enjoy each bite?
177Although I look confused, I am just dry fitting the joint before I glue-up. The sooner I finish this project, the sooner I can get to the smoked Salmon in the Trader Joe's bag.
Note the doors to my right and my left are finished. I waited to attack this mitered window as I gained experience.
179Sorry for posting this picture out of sequence, but this illustrates the 6 different specials we needed for the masonry work.
It took us 9 months to receive the order of a couple pallets of standards along with 120 of the specials.
My naivete was clearly obvious when I assumed Belden brick would still have the original molds from 1954. They laughed and had to send
a representative to the home to double check all measurements since they discard all molds within a month or two of any given order.
It took us 9 months to receive the order of a couple pallets of standards along with 120 of the specials.
My naivete was clearly obvious when I assumed Belden brick would still have the original molds from 1954. They laughed and had to send
a representative to the home to double check all measurements since they discard all molds within a month or two of any given order.
dtc,
Wow! This is really informative, fascinating and fun. These labors of love certainly illustrate how custom and hand built these homes are.
I would think as a carpenter, mason or any other skilled craftsmen, it would be more than another job, but an honor. Do you (and all the other Wright home owners) find that these people take their level of work up a notch for these houses?
Thanks for sharing this journey and thanks to SDR again for the photo assist.
BBuck
Wow! This is really informative, fascinating and fun. These labors of love certainly illustrate how custom and hand built these homes are.
I would think as a carpenter, mason or any other skilled craftsmen, it would be more than another job, but an honor. Do you (and all the other Wright home owners) find that these people take their level of work up a notch for these houses?
Thanks for sharing this journey and thanks to SDR again for the photo assist.
BBuck
BBuck,
Actually most craftsmen that I called in, to bid on the work, did not respond after viewing it. For example, one so called restoration firm would only make new doors, would not hang them nor would not install the glass.
Apparently they did not want to take on any liabilities; and, realized they could not purchase the doors off the shelf of their local wood supplier.
One carpenter, after viewing the work said he would look for a supplier that could vinyl clad the exterior so I would have less maintenance. (This out of the mouth of a recommended source, who viewed the exterior, and was oblivious to the Dobkins house, FLLW and his theories)
Credit is given to my wife for she reminded me time and time again, that numerous original clients jumped right in and did the work themselves, Virginia and Don Lovness are just one well known example.
As for taking their work up a notch, I thought Dennis our metal/copper smith might have fit into that category, but after seeing his work on other projects I have to say he is truly a honest, talented and skilled metal smith, with integrity worth every dollar of his hourly rate.
The masons were from the Cleveland area, a 65 mile trip each way.
Dennis drove in from Chardon, Ohio also a 60 or so mile trip, 120 round trip.
I guess it was to be expected, the best are few and hard to find (they have more work then they can handle) and you need to wait to get on their calendars. As for most tradesmen, I believe look for assignments with very little challenge.
Actually most craftsmen that I called in, to bid on the work, did not respond after viewing it. For example, one so called restoration firm would only make new doors, would not hang them nor would not install the glass.
Apparently they did not want to take on any liabilities; and, realized they could not purchase the doors off the shelf of their local wood supplier.
One carpenter, after viewing the work said he would look for a supplier that could vinyl clad the exterior so I would have less maintenance. (This out of the mouth of a recommended source, who viewed the exterior, and was oblivious to the Dobkins house, FLLW and his theories)
Credit is given to my wife for she reminded me time and time again, that numerous original clients jumped right in and did the work themselves, Virginia and Don Lovness are just one well known example.
As for taking their work up a notch, I thought Dennis our metal/copper smith might have fit into that category, but after seeing his work on other projects I have to say he is truly a honest, talented and skilled metal smith, with integrity worth every dollar of his hourly rate.
The masons were from the Cleveland area, a 65 mile trip each way.
Dennis drove in from Chardon, Ohio also a 60 or so mile trip, 120 round trip.
I guess it was to be expected, the best are few and hard to find (they have more work then they can handle) and you need to wait to get on their calendars. As for most tradesmen, I believe look for assignments with very little challenge.
174This really illustrates the damaging effects of UV.
I am sanding the exterior side of a screen door, which is one of 12 that face due south.
You must keep in mind that these screens are hung inside the exterior doors, and the UV still attacked the wood.
I will try to find an image of a finished screen with Sikkens applied 5 or so years ago, to contrast with this pic.
Did not touch the interior sides of the screens ... they retain their original shellac and paste wax finish.
And yes, although all cabinets, casements and doors have continuous hinges the screens have mortised butt hinges.
171Backer rod waiting to be installed between the concrete mat and parapet wall
The two surfaces that the sealant will adhere to must be cleaned of all bacteria, mosses, and dirt for proper adhesion.
We used a mild acid, rinsed and power washed as well as we could.
170Stripping the main living room terrace. Over the years all three terraces had received numerous generations of paint. The cardboard box is filled
with generations of building sealant that were scraped out of module lines ... as I remember this was a very unpleasant project but some one had to do it.
I do not have to remind you that the cement is unforgiving, hard to kneel on and difficult to keep clean.
Can't tell you how many times I power washed paint remover residue, neutralizer, dirt before I could apply the stain/sealer.
Yes the blue power washer, a toy, is a joke ... I believe I burned it out in less than one season of use.
172Installing backer rod ... one step closer to applying the building sealant. We used a Brick color, Dow 100% silicone.
173The finished entry terrace.
169The finished living room terrace. The mitered window waits patiently for attention. And also note the color of the building sealant, it is a near
match to the concrete color.
Hopefully, some of this information will be of use in future projects for folks who are caretakers of FLLW homes -- or for that matter any home.
I wish you all the best, and again thanks to SDR for his assistance on uploading.
dtc
Thank you so much for sharing your labor of love with us. It gives me a sneak preview of what is coming around the bend for us at Lamberson. So many of the issues which we will soon be facing, you meticulously attended to at Dobkins. For now, we are enjoying the instant gratification of projects like furniture building. The true long term maintenance and structural problems, such as brickwork and concrete restoration have been put on the back burner for now, but we are well aware that the they will need attention asap.
Are there any additional problems which you still need to address, or is it now merely a question of "general maintenance"?
Are there any additional problems which you still need to address, or is it now merely a question of "general maintenance"?