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We are building a LDH and I am looking for a bit of help as we are using concrete radiant flooring but an having trouble finding the best solution for staining the floor FLW red. Staining the concrete before pouring seems to not give the deep red I see in many of FLW designs and almost looks industrial. I have found using a Faded Terracotta acid stain (Scofield) after pouring twice put on for 20 min seems to be the closest but can create a rust/orange coloring.
Anyone have advice on procedure? I understand local conditions such a lime, etc etc, will affect the outcome to some degree. Just looking for a few pointers.
The process involves floating the concrete (allowing water to come to the surface) and then broadcasting the iron-oxide sealer/consolidant over the concrete slab - then floating the concrete once more, and reapply. If your concrete contractor has never done this before they should first prepare a sample to get them up to speed and to ensure that it looks right for your approval. After the concrete is dry, apply the tinted liquid sealer recommended by Scofield. Good luck!
Thanks so much for the help. I will review the color's available and run a test. As always thanks for taking the time to respond. I always find such great information in this forum.outside in wrote: Instead, use the Scofield "shake on" concrete colorizer/sealer. They have two or three terra cotta colors that are very close to the AC Horn product that FLW use to specify.!
Best Regards and have a great weekend... Go Bucks
However, if your concrete contractor has never used this process I would use someone else. If it is done poorly, you have a very expensive mess to correct.
They have to watch drying time, spread the material evenly and also must get the material integrated to a reasonable depth within the top layer of the concrete.
Dying the concrete on the truck is another option which I have never used. Sounds fullproof though and requires no special skill I believe.
I find the Acid Stain gives some really nice change in colors.. deep red/dark purple.. but if wrong orange/rust colors. Have you used the acid colors successfully? Do you have recommendations?Richard wrote:The Scofield product works very well. I have used it several times.
I don't believe this contractor has done much with staining indoors. They were surprised I wanted concrete used for most of the flooring in the house. Lord knows the house itself (truss/radius/clerestory windows/radiant floor/foam insulation/shoji doors/solar thermal and PV.. etc etc..) is a challenge at every step.. Yet rewarding!
Again thanks for taking the time to give your input.
At the Sweeton house, the exterior concrete at the front porch and steps, rear terrace, and the basement areaway steps have worn or faded to a "pinkish hue", or in some places, worn down to the aggregate and grey concrete. There are portions of the terrace and areaway steps that were covered by leaves, weed growth, or mud for so long that the original finish, which matches the house interior, is still intact. I'd like to make it all uniform at some point. Can any of the original coatings be reapplied to 60 year old cured material, or do I need to use paint?
I found an original can of the concrete tint behind the plumbing access panel in the trunk room closet (probably toxic waste by now)...I also found some vintage paint stir sticks with the what appears to be the original window paint color, or is it the concrete tint?. I'll take a pic of the can this weekend so it can be posted, for whatever scholarly value it might have.
The access panel was interesting to open, it led to the space behind the tub apron and down into a 24" square by 24" deep pit that has the drain cleanouts; the water supply runs from the basement branch off from this location; and a radiant heat pipe runs through the pit. I saw the slab edge from the pit opening...the red coating is 1/8" to 3/32" thick.
http://www.concretesolutions.com/spray_ ... _main.html